Lot 50
"The Great Dress" – Bridal Attire – Morocco
Bridal attire, called the "Great Dress" [El-Keswa El-Kbira / Barbariska]. Morocco (Rabat or Tangier), [late 19th century / early 20th century].
These elaborate clothes called El-Keswa El-Kbira – The Great Dress - arrived in Morocco with the Spanish Jews who settled in the north of the country. They served the woman at her wedding and after her marriage were worn on festive occasions and on Jewish festivals.
The apparel is made of four parts: a large wrap-around skirt, a vest, a breastplate and another chest adornment, all made of crimson velvet fabric and decorated with gold embroidery and golden ribbons.
* The skirt, called a Zaltita (derived from the Spanish word giraldeta, meaning encompassing, is cut from several parts sewn together like a fan. The skirt is adorned with golden ribbons and golden embroidery on its lower corners. The width of the skirt along its bottom is 310 cm.
* The vest, called a Gombayz, has short sleeves. Along the opening at the front is a row of metal buttons. The neck opening, the shoulders and the shoulder blades are ornamented with golden ribbons. 50X75 cm.
* The breastplate, cut like a small tallit, called Katef in Arabic and Ponta in Spanish, is adorned with golden embroidery in vegetal patterns (on a cardboard lining). This part is the most elaborate and costly part of the whole attire therefore decorated by the most exclusive embroidery. 45X50 cm.
* Another adornment, also with rich golden embroidery, apparently also used to decorate the chest area. 42X60 cm.
Overall good condition. Some of the golden ribbons are detached. Damage to velvet. Minor tears and damage.
Literature: 1. The Lives of the Jews in Morocco, Aviva Muller-Lantzet (editor). The Israel Museum, 1983 (second edition), pp. 200-203.
2. Morocco, Jews and Art in a Muslim Land, Vivian B. Mann (editor), published by Merrell and the Jewish Museum of New York, 2000, pp. 134-136, 174-176.
