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Lot 61

Wimpel Decorated with Haute Couture Embroidery Interwoven with Metal Thread and Sequins – Germany, 1835

Wimpel commemorating the birth of Benjamin (Wolf) ben Netanel Mai. [Germany], 6th Tevet 5595 [January 7, 1835].
Silk thread embroidery in a host of colors, interwoven with spiraling metal thread, on linen cloth; metal sequins. A "wimpel" (linen Torah binder) of extraordinarily high quality, decorated in haute couture, created by a masterful artist on four sheets of fabric of almost identical size (78-80 cm) all sewn together. The following (Hebrew) inscription appears in the middle:
"Binyamin (known as) Wolf son of the honorable Rabbi Netanel M / ai born with good fortune on the 6th day of Tevet 5595 [January 7, 1835] / … May the Lord raise him to [be privileged with] Torah / the wedding canopy, and good deeds Amen Selah".
The margins also bear embroidered decorations.
The inscription is embroidered in high-quality silk thread in a multitude of colors. The letters are created using rich vegetal or geometric patterns, some in particularly bold colors, combined at times with spiraling gilt metal thread and metal sequins, lending an extraordinary measure of depth and elegance to the overall result.
There are numerous accompanying decorations, including, most significantly: the "nun-sofit" of the name "Binyamin" appears in the form of a peacock feather; acorns in spiraling metal thread, along with oak leaves, are embroidered above the "kaf-heh" (representing "the honorable Rabbi…"); the ascenders above each letter "lamed" are in the form of large flowers or leaves; the vertical linear element of the letter "kuf" (representing the numerical value of 100) of the Hebrew year 5595 is made to look like a fish, with scales consisting of sequins (the same element of the "kuf" in "peh-kuf" also appears as a fish, but without the sequin-scales); an embroidered little goat crouched in a pasture labeled "Mazal Gedi" (Capricorn) appears above the Hebrew month of Tevet, representing the month’s corresponding Zodiac sign; an image of an open Torah scroll with the words "Torat Moshe Emet" inscribed onto it is embroidered following the word "LeTorah"; an illustration of a wedding canopy – along with the inscriptions "Mazat" (abbreviation for "Mazal Tov") and "Kol sason, kol simcha, kol chatan, kol kalah" – appears following the word "LiChupah; and more.
More often than not, wimpels tend to be products of folk art; the artistic quality frequently borders on the amateurish, reflecting the creative capabilities of a mother, or a random embroiderer/seamstress/illustrator, as well as the quality of available materials, etc. The present wimpel, in contrast, represents a fine example of haute couture; it is a high-quality work demanding precision and attention to detail – clearly the handiwork of skilled, well-trained professionals.
The surname "Mai" or "May" most likely corresponds to a well-known German-Jewish family that resided, among other places, in the Rödelheim quarter of Frankfurt am Main, although Jews by that name are also known to have lived in Denmark.


315X19.5 cm. Overall good condition. Few stains.


Reference and exhibitions:
1. Shimmering Gold: the splendor of gold embroided textile, by Nitza Behroozi BarOz and Gania Dolev. Tel Aviv, the Eretz Israel Museum, 2007, p. 148 and p. 156, item no. 99 (Hebrew).
2. A Guide to Jewish Art, by Michael Kaniel. New York, Philosophical Library, 1989, p. 78.
3. Jodendom: een boek vol verhalen. Amsterdam, De Nieuwe Kerk, 2011-2012.
Provenance: The Gross Family Collection, Tel Aviv, 019.014.042.
This wimpel is documented on the Center for Jewish Art (CJA) website, item no. 39299.