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Collection of embroidered garments and silver jewelry from the Jewish and Islamic tradition, used as bridal attire after the immigration of Yemenite Jews to Israel. [Yemen and Israel, 20th century].
Silver; gold brocade; embroidery.
After the Yemenite immigration to Israel in the 50s, the richly complex Yemenite ethnic attire and jewelry tradition underwent transformation due to the Israeli assimilation policy and the nature of mass immigration. Many Yemenite Jews were compelled to sell their jewelry to finance their journey and others were not able to bring their ceremonial outfits with them. Traditional bridal garments reappeared at Yemenite weddings in Israel but, as customs shifted, had become part of the Henna celebration rather than the wedding itself. Instead of the varied outfits and jewelry unique to each region, the Sanaite bridal attire, called Tishbukh Lulu (after the pearl-encrusted headdress), took over, becoming the stereotypical Yemenite bridal dress. This attire too began to change as pieces which in Yemen were used only by Muslim women (though usually crafted by Jewish silversmiths since in Yemen this was exclusively a Jewish occupation) and jewelry traditional to other Yemenite Jewish regions were incorporated. Therefore, this collection consists of Jewish jewelry and garments alongside Muslim ones, and of women's and girls' items. The context, having changed, gave new meaning to these items; rather than signifying social, marital and religious status they have now become markers of ethnic identity and tradition.
1. Festive hood for Jewish brides and new mothers. [Yemen, first half of the 20th century]. Gold brocade (Mizahar) bordered with embroidered rows of silver, gold, colored threads and barley grain-shaped pendants (aqrāt she‘iriyāt) although not including a row of pearls. Gilt filigree plaques and rows of coins were traditionally sewn unto the hood (not enclosed).
2. Mekhautam, ceremonial leggings embroidered with white, red and silver threads, worn by Jewish girls before their marriage. Without the rows of embroidery and beads characteristic to girls' leggings. Attached to gold brocade.
3. A labbe shaeiriyat bib-necklace, worn by Muslim women. Granulation, punched and filigree.
4-5. Two women's bracelets. Granulation and filigree.
6. Heavy silver belt for a Muslim bride made of two rows of plates decorated with granulation, silver ropes and bells. Double dome-shaped buckle.
7. Dukka necklace made of large silver beads, imitation amber beads and a talisman. In Saan'a, such necklaces were worn by Muslim women, unmarried Jewish girls and Jewish brides. However, in other Yemenite regions, Dukka necklaces were part of the set of jewelry donned by Jewish women.
8. Lazim necklace made of a central silver rectangular plaque, decorated with granulation, two triangular end-plates also decorated with granulation, and six chains with "berry" type, coral and plain silver beads (the latter possibly a later addition).
Size and condition vary. Soldering repairs, late additions and repairs.
Literature: Ma'ase Rokem, Dress and Jewelry in the Tradition of the Jews of Yemen, Carmella Abdar. E'ele BeTamar foundation, 2008.